By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com

Travel to Europe isn’t happening this holiday season, but you might want to contemplate plans for future years. The outdoor Christmas Markets in Germany enticed me in 2019, and I am so glad I went.

The winter markets harken back to the 13th century and bring all the delights associated with Christmas: Old World aromas of roasting chestnuts, the taste of sweet and spicy gingerbread, the sounds of Yuletide carols, the sight of colorful lights, and the interaction of people in good cheer. The little shops feature old-fashioned wooden toys, nutcracker characters, seasonal decorations, and tree ornaments. Many of them are exquisitely hand-carved while the less expensive varieties are machine manufactured. Traditional German food and drink await in abundant supply.

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I began exploring Stuttgart’s downtown market bustling with nearly 300 wooden booths. Their roofs were covered with 3-D figures and designs, often animated characters, and festooned with lots of fresh greenery (no artificial garland). Each booth is filled with goodies, often strung from beam to beam and hanging from the ceiling. 

Of course, a massive Christmas tree shimmered with hundreds of lights, but I was attracted to the life-size Nativity figures in a large rotating pyramid. Unlike Egyptian pyramids, German Christmas pyramids are circular, descending wooden tiered platforms that rotate by burning candles. Smaller versions of these become cherished annual centerpieces in German homes. They showcase the nativity family and animals and other figures (shepherds, wise men) associated with the manger. The big one in the center of the city mesmerized me. 

Marketgoers stop to drink Glühwein (hot mulled wine, served in a mug) along with sausages, pretzels, nuts, or sweets. It felt like eating at a fair, but some people dine in the downtown restaurants. 

A holiday light show included typical Yuletide music and dancing designs and floodlit models of a Mercedes and Porsche; after all, Stuttgart is home to those automakers.

After sunset, I rode a commuter train about 10 miles to reach Ludwigsburg, a smaller town with around 100,000 residents. Ludwigsburg presents a Baroque Christmas Market. A walk through the modern downtown, illuminated by an angel theme, soon brought me to the holiday market. A glittery angel hovered above the stalls bustling with local families and shoppers. 

I heard singing, the sweet sound of children’s voices, and followed it until I came to an outdoor stage. I listened to elementary-aged students perform a medley of holiday songs, mostly in German, except Jingle Bells in English. Equally heart-warming was the delighted faces of parents and grandparents beaming with pride and love. As I stood there, I felt the spirit of Christmas rekindled, spreading like a warm glow. I smiled and thought, “This is what it’s all about.”

The next evening, I took the train a bit farther to historic Esslingen. Picturesque is an understatement; Esslingen lies on the Neckar River, and nearly every building remains a half-timbered architectural gem. I immediately fell under the spell of this colorful town, looking as if it were frozen in time. 

Esslingen hosts an extraordinary Medieval Christmas Market. The theme is fully embraced by merchants dressed in historic-looking costumes demonstrating and selling their classic crafts. Blacksmiths, glass blowers, woodcarvers, and minstrels engage the crowds. A midway of traditional fair games called for participation. I kept running into jugglers, fire eaters, and crowd performers. A special children’s area even fits in a small ferris wheel and kid-sized games. A whole pig was roasting on a spit. The Medieval Market was alive and oh so much fun, by far the favorite market of my trip. 

The Stuttgart Christmas markets were all I hoped for and imagined, and I sure wish I were going again this year.

Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.

Photo courtesy Debi Lander
Stuttgart Shop

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