By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com
Gazing at millions of monarch butterflies fluttering around their remote Mexican winter sanctuaries becomes an incredible dream-like encounter, an adventure I’ll never forget.
Monarchs are one of the most recognizable butterflies. Surprisingly, the fragile insects’ migration location remained a mystery until 1975. Researchers knew they flew south to Texas and on into Mexico, but exactly where no one knew. A program to tag the monarch’s wings led to the previously hidden habitat.
Every fall, as the weather turns cooler and the sun’s angle dips, the monarch butterflies start their 2,800 – mile journey from eastern North America to the sanctuaries in Mexico. The monarchs cluster in the oyamel fir forests in the volcanic mountains of Central Mexico, not a place easily accessible.
The late summer migrating generation of the monarchs is known as Methuselah after the biblical man who lived for 987 years. These butterflies live five to eight times as long as their parents and grandparents. They develop flight muscles and store lipids for their hazardous journey to the ideal high mountain habitat. They do not reproduce until the following spring.
Mexico now protects these tiny creatures in the Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve. From November to April, the Reserve provides a rare opportunity to immerse yourself in the monarch’s world.
My journey with Craftours started in Mexico City and involved a multi-hour drive up switch-backed mountain roads to an altitude of around 7,000 feet.
Upon arrival at the sanctuary, I climbed on a horse and let him do the huffing and puffing up the steep incline. Very fit men lead the tethered horses up and down the trail. The approximate 15-minute ride follows a path into the canopy of oyamel trees that only grow at very high altitudes. Then, a required sanctuary guide leads the way to the best viewing spots, possibly hiking another 2,000 feet higher.
If the temperature at this altitude reaches around 60 degrees, listen for the soft fluttering of gossamer wings as thousands of butterflies search for nectar and water. The sight, a popcorn-like explosion, brings some to tears. Others say they feel they have stepped into a National Geographic documentary. I looked down at the dirt trail and saw shadows dancing like jumping polka dots. I looked up and was mesmerized by the sheer beauty of the mountains in the distance and the colorful flutter-bys (as my toddler son used to call them).
If the temperature drops below 55 degrees or the sky is cloudy or misty, the butterflies cluster together, one on top of another, with tightly closed wings that appear black. High up in the fir trees, the branches bend downward with what resembles a dangling, giant termite nest or a swollen beehive. The butterflies snuggle and remain motionless with the exceptional arrival or departure of one of the species. The butterfly groups blanketing the tree trunks look more like rusty autumn leaves. The overall sight is mystifying but slightly disappointing compared to witnessing the confetti-like flitting of monarchs on a warm day.
The strenuous climb and guided tour allowed me and others to observe one of nature’s most magical sights. Comments overheard on the trail were, “a once-in-a-lifetime-moment, simply stunning, a miracle of wonder, being one with nature, and exhausting but excellent.”
Now that I’m home, I long to return for another hour in swirling butterfly heaven.
Craftours: https://craftours.com/tour/mexico-monarch/
Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.
Photo courtesy Debi Lander
Hiking to see the Monarchs.
