By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com
From my younger days, I recall the television show “Death Valley Days” and its sponsor, 20-Mule Team Borax. The popular series ran from 1952 – 1970, becoming television’s longest-running western. Perhaps somewhere in my subconscious mind, those memories nudged me to go visit the place.
Death Valley National Park, in southeastern California, claims the highest recorded temperature on Earth (134 degrees). It receives just two inches of rain per year and is the largest national park in the lower 48. I found it rugged and fascinating, but some areas felt eerie, lonely, and frightfully abandoned.
I flew to Las Vegas, rented a car, and drove about two hours to Furnace Creek, the park hub with a visitor center and park ranger station. Once you pass Pahrump, Nevada (yes, that is an actual city), the rock formations start appearing among the desolate wilderness.
Hotel choices are limited to the Inn at Death Valley, once the exclusive escape for Hollywood elites, or the 224-room Ranch. The Ranch provides a resort atmosphere with green lawns, a spring-fed swimming pool, playground area, tennis, golf course, riding stables, and bike rentals. Expect high prices in the middle of nowhere, but not as dear as the Inn, where room rates start around $500 per night.
No surprise, Zabriskie Point, near Furnace Creek, attracts visitors for sunrise and sunset. Variegated mounds called Badlands overlap one another while others display deep erosion patterns. They all unite, forming a mysterious grand vista with snow-capped peaks in the distance. Tip: the wind blows forcefully as you near the overlook.
I drove on to Badwater Basin, the lowest point in the states, 282 feet below sea level. Salt crystals form on this 200-square mile stretch of land that was once covered in water. The polygon patterns beguile and change with weather conditions.
I walked out, nearly a mile, to where the white crystals cover the salt floor entirely. This 360-degree view mesmerized me, like spiderwebs stretching to infinity. Make the long walk, but be careful of the uneven surface.
Driving back, I passed the entrance for the nine-mile Artist’s Palette loop in the Black Mountains on the eastern side of Death Valley. The colorful, majestic peaks look like a painter dabbed a brush across the surface. Another afternoon, I returned to see sunshine dance upon the vivid terrain.
To photograph a sunset, I made a long, switch-back drive to Dante’s Peak, the highest point in the park. Visitors peer a mile down to the fringes of mystical-looking Badwater Basin. The humbling mountains surround the summit and become a dramatic backdrop at twilight. I was hoping for a glorious sunset, but Mother Nature didn’t cooperate; however, I felt her ominous power of darkness on the 45-minute drive back.
Another early morning, I ventured 20 miles to the Mesquite Sand Dunes. Here, a wave-like stretch of sand formations ripples against more surreal mountain ranges. Walking proves difficult in the soft dunes, but the place begs for exploration. Look for windblown striations, strange freeform patterns, and small mesquite trees.
The Harmony Borax ruins, an outdoor museum, brought an explanation to the 20-mule team advertisements. The mineral was mined here from 1883 to 1889, but hauling it became too costly and the work conditions unbearable.
I planned to see Ubehebe Crater, another highlight, but it rests 60 miles from Furnace Creek. Be mindful of your gas tank; the only park fuel station sells petrol at excessively inflated prices. I loved the otherworldly landscapes in Death Valley, but not all the driving. Visitors need to spend a minimum of two days to appreciate the curious wonders of this sunny desert.
Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.
Photo courtesy Debi Lander
Sunset at Zabriskie Point.
