By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com
Whether traveling abroad or exploring my home state, I find something comforting about revisiting a place. Familiar landmarks, like Cinderella’s Castle at Disney World bring back vivid memories of past visits. Of course, changes are inevitable — sometimes enhancing the experience, other times altering it in unexpected ways. Regardless, returning always offers the opportunity for new memories, especially when revisiting an international destination.
In 2016, I had my first encounter with Istanbul, a city rich in history and culture. Now officially spelled “Türkiye” instead of “Turkey,” the country continues to evolve. Recently, I returned to Istanbul and revisited three historical monuments, each offering a fresh perspective.
Hagia Sophia is a masterpiece of Byzantine architecture, originally constructed as a cathedral in 537 AD under Emperor Justinian I. This UNESCO World Heritage Site features four minarets, a stunning dome and intricate mosaics. Over the centuries, it has served as a church, a mosque, and a museum.
In 2020, however, Türkiye’s President Erdoğan decided to convert Hagia Sophia back into a mosque. This marked a significant shift in its identity. For nearly 900 years, it was a Christian cathedral until the Ottoman conquest of Constantinople in 1453, after which it became a mosque. In 1935, as part of Mustafa Atatürk’s secularist reforms, it was turned into a museum.
Today, Hagia Sophia serves as an active place for Muslim worship while remaining accessible to visitors. Changes are immediately evident: the iconic Byzantine mosaics of Jesus and Mary are veiled during prayers, and soft green carpets now cover the marble floors. Unlike my previous visit, the ground level is no longer open to all visitors, a change I found disappointing. In 2016, I recall standing in awe beneath the immense dome, overwhelmed by its magnificence and history. During this trip, I was directed to the balcony level, where I looked down at the breathtaking interior. While the view from above was still mesmerizing, I missed the immersive experience of standing beneath the dome’s grandeur.
One of my favorite attractions visited in 2016 was the Basilica Cistern, an illuminated underground wonder beneath Istanbul’s streets. Upon my return, I discovered that the site had also undergone a transformation. A restoration project from 2017 to 2022 revitalized this subterranean marvel, making it safer and more accessible. New, sturdy walkways replaced the older paths, allowing visitors to explore the 336 ancient marble and granite columns with ease.
Modern LED lighting now enhances the cistern’s ethereal quality, casting enchanting shadows and reflections. Contemporary art installations float in its shallow waters, blending modern creativity with the past. While these additions are lovely, I found myself nostalgic for the original, simpler design.
The iconic and unforgettable Medusa heads have been cleaned and preserved. They appeared green during my first visit, likely due to algae or mold, but now they glimmer in a cream-colored hue. The addition of a metallic Medusa statue, with dramatic shadow play, offered a delightful surprise; however, I wish the lighting on the statue remained constant instead of cycling on and off.
Topkapi Palace, once the heart of Ottoman power, continues to captivate visitors with its grandeur. Recent restorations have opened sections of the sprawling complex that were previously inaccessible. Visitors can now explore newly unveiled courtyards, though some areas that were once open now require separate tickets.
The highlight of my visit was the refurbished Imperial Treasury, where I finally saw the famed Topkapi Emerald dagger. Fans of the Peter Ustinov movie “Topkapi,” which dramatizes a heist involving the dagger, will appreciate the cinematic connection.
Revisiting Istanbul was certainly worthwhile, yet reminded me that changes are an integral part of any journey.
For more: goturkiye.com
Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.
Photo courtesy Debi Lander
Hagia Sophia.
