By Debi Lander
mail@floridanewsline.com
Getting to the region of Extremadura in Spain takes a little extra effort — but travelers are rewarded with a wealth of Spanish history, cultural heritage, natural wonders (especially birds), exceptional cuisine, and the absence of crowds. A three-hour drive southwest of Madrid brought me to the medieval city of Cáceres. Passing through rolling countryside scattered with giant boulders and thousands of olive trees, I soon discovered a district primed for tourism and on the tip of being unveiled.
The Old Town of Cáceres (the “ce” is pronounced like “th” in “thin”) is considered one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe, earning it UNESCO World Heritage site status. The sepia-toned walled historic center surrounds a stunning array of Roman, Islamic, Gothic, and Italian Renaissance architecture, and best of all, no modern embellishments.
I began by meandering along winding, narrow cobblestone paths, each turn bringing a picture-postcard view of a church, fortress, or civic building, most adorned with towers and steeples and many topped with stork nests or Spanish kestrels. Saintly statues filled wall niches and doorframes featured centuries-old family crests.
While strolling the 22 acres of the historic center hilltop, you’ll pass the statue of patron saint San Pedro de Alcantara in front of the Santa Maria Cathedral. The devoted stop to rub his bronze toes for blessings, while others do so for good luck. Then, take time to tour inside the cathedral to see the exquisitely carved wooden altar from the 15th century. Don’t miss climbing the bell tower for one of the city’s best panoramas or surmounting one of two towers on the popularly photographed Church of San Francisco Javier.
If Old Town looks like a scene from the hit drama “Game of Thrones,” you are not imagining things. Filming sites included Arco de la Estrella, the arched main entrance to the historic center of Cáceres, as the fictional gate to King’s Landing. When I went bird-watching at Los Barruecos Park, I saw the location used for the epic battleground where Daenerys Targaryen brought out her fire-breathing dragons. Extremadura is a bird lover’s paradise with more than 360 species thriving in the area, but alas, no dragons.
One morning, I took a tour, gaining insider information from my guide, who stopped at the Convent of St. Paul (Poor Clare Nuns). He entered a side door, set coins on a secret turntable, and when the table spun back around, a box of cookies appeared. The cloistered nuns bake these, especially around Christmas and Easter. Holy Week brings a religious festival to the city, which I learned about in the City Museum.
Cáceres became an ideal base for exploring the surrounding area, but touring outside the old town requires a car. I made exceptional trips to see ancient theater ruins in Merida and the golden splendor in Plasencia’s New and Old Cathedral. I learned about Emperor Charles V’s royal Monastery of San Jeronimo de Yuste.
One of the most surprising and well-hidden finds in Cáceres was Atrio, a three-Michelin-star restaurant, and its sister restaurant, Torre de Sande Eatery. Tapas (small plates) are famous in Spain, but dining happens very late by American standards. Extremadura’s highlights include Iberico ham from pigs that feast on sweet acorns and fabulous cheeses, especially Torta del Casar. I stayed at the lovely NH Collection Caceres Palacio de Oquendo, a converted 16th-century palace steps outside Cáceres’ medieval walls. I also stayed in two paradors, historic buildings converted into hotels, in Spain.
Extremadura offers a wealth of tourism options that are beyond the norm and will soon be at the top of one of those must-see destination lists. Go soon before it gets crowded.
Visit www.bylandersea.com to read more of local travel writer Debi Lander’s stories and travel tips.
Photos courtesy Debi Lander
View of Medieval Cecares.
